Recently, Central City Millworks completed a project which involved installing an entire room full of traditional style raised paneling.  The one thing I did not like about these rooms previously is that the stiles and rails holding the panels in place are full of nail holes and putty spots.  I decided to come up with a way in which it could be done with hidden fasteners.  To my surprise, after testing every complicated technique I could think of, I found it to be as easy as otherwise traditional methods.  All you have to do is calculate for an extra inch on the stile and rail width to accommodate a ½” x ½” rabbit on either side as shown below:

This rabbit allows for fasteners to be applied into the concealed part of the stile/rail that is covered by the applied molding.  This additional ½” x ½” can be added to the outside edges of the raised panel and be fastened in the same manner as shown below:

I recommend using a cdx plywood substrate so that there are no troubles when nailing, and this will afford you the opportunity to implement a construction adhesive on the rear of the panels.  Lay out and install all of the stiles and rails, then take the measurements for the raised paneling. You will have to rabbit out the underside of the rails to get tight joinery, but this can easily be done on a sliding miter saw with a depth set.  Once the stiles, rails, and panels are installed, simply use a 23g pin pneumatic nail gun to install the applied molding and your done.

Ever get confused installing a door?  Can’t quite figure out where the hinges should be installed or where the key should be? Here is a simple list to help you keep it all straight!

Door 101

Left Hand Door

• Hinges on the left
• Key Side on the right
• Push door away from you to open

Right Hand Door

• Hinges on the right
• Key Side on the left
• Push door away from you to open

Left Hand Reverse

• Hinges on the left
• Key Side on the right
• Pull door toward you to open

Right Hand Reverse

• Hinges on the right
• Key Side on the left
• Pull door toward you to open

Door 201

Double Doors, Right Hand Active

• Left door is fixed
• Right door is the active leaf
• Hinges on the right side of the right hand door
• Key Side is on the left side of the right hand door
• Push right hand door away from you to open

Double Doors, Left Hand Active

• Right door is fixed
• Left door is the active leaf
• Hinges on the left side of the left hand door
• Key Side is on the right side of the left hand door
• Push left hand door away from you to open

Double Doors, Right Hand Reverse Active

• Left door is fixed
• Right door is the active leaf
• Hinges on the right side of the right hand door
• Key side is on the left side of the right hand door
• Pull right hand door toward you to open

Double Doors, Left Hand Reverse Action

• Right door is fixed
• Left door is the active leaf
• Hinges on the left side of the left hand door
• Key Side is on the right side of the left hand door
• Pull left hand door toward you to open

Recently, I began estimating glass shelves for a bay window to accommodate a client’s orchids. I asked Zack Zoll of Standard Glass what type of glass I needed for the shelves, and I learned some glass basics.  Here is a brief description:

Plate

1. Not safety rated
2. Comes in varies sizes, standard is 1/8” thick on up.
3. Most common

An exampled of installed tempered glass

Tempered

1. Safety rated
2. Comes in varies sizes, standard is 1/8” think on up.
3. Tempered process means it has been heated up to 1300 or 1400 degrees then gradually cooled down to adjust the stress level.
4. Lead time for tempered increases by a couple of weeks, glass made to size, not meant to be recut.
5. Typically put in doors or windows.  New codes say 18” from ground and 18” from exterior doors.
6. Typically in side windows in cars
7. When it breaks it shatters, therefore less likely to cause severe injury
8. Best in horizontal applications

Laminated

1. Safety rated
2. Standard sizes are ¼ and 3/8.
3. Two pieces of plate glass bonded together
4. Weaker than tempered glass
5. Blocks UV light
6. Sound blocking properties
7. Difficult to break thru, when it is shattered it stays together
8. Not best in horizontal applications
9. Typically in car windshields

Thank you Standard Glass for the great information on windows.

Millwork Definitions: “Standing and Running Trim”

When trim moulding (or molding) is ordered from a mill shop (and from some lumber companies), the customer can select either “standing” or “running” trim. There has always been confusion regarding the meaning of these terms in describing trim moulding, even in the construction business.  Many people think that running trim is any horizontal pieces, like crown moulding or baseboard.  And that standing trim is door casing, window casing or anything else that runs vertically.  When I did a simple Google search for a definition, it appears the misunderstanding is being perpetuated now on the internet.

Standing and running trim - The correct definition from CCM

Standing trim (moulding), is properly defined as pieces of trim moulding of specified lengths delivered to the job site.  Meaning that the builder had determined the exact sizes they need beforehand and placed an order that will minimize cutting and waste.  This commonly would be doorjambs, casings, window aprons, and any pre-machined trim as window stool, handrails, etc.  As standing trim is custom milled for lengths, prepare to pay a small premium for standing trim mouldings.  As standing trim eliminates job site waste, usually the small premium is offset by the savings in waste and certainly our landfills benefit from its use.

Running trim (moulding), is properly defined as pieces of  trim moulding of random lengths delivered to the job site. This commonly would be longer lengths up to 16 linear foot often used for baseboard, chair rail, crown mouldings, etc. Running trim moulding is the most economical way to purchase moulding. If you are installing a lot of moulding, a good carpenter can calculate and cut running trim to eliminate the need to purchase standing trim.

Please note that it is always best to try to order running trim in lengths that will work best for you. For example, a highly machined trim such as large crown should be ordered as intelligently as possible to eliminate unnecessary joints in the finished product. Please contact Central City Millworks with any questions with your trim moulding needs and our experts will help you decide the best combination of trim to order for your building needs.